Bad World is an occasional column by Toni Thai Sterrett, a filmmaker, futurist and founder who focuses on the intersection of fashion and technology.
Welcome to the Bad World, where we embrace the future of fashion in all its elements. Right now, the conversation around sustainability is the loudest. We can talk about a more sustainable world without sacrificing individuality, style and fun. We just talk about it in a real and authentic way.
Now let’s take a look at something I love: Pharrell Williams’ appointment in 2023 as the new Creative Director at Louis Vuitton and his debut collection for the Spring/Summer 2024 men’s collection. But before I get into that, I’m drawn back to the excitement that was in the air when Louis Vuitton released its first NFTa soul bound sign– meaning it cannot be traded or sold – early June 2023.
This Louis Vuitton drop was fascinating for many reasons. First, we talk a lot about NFTs making it easier for brands to have loyalty programs for their customers, á la Starbucks And Nike. But a soul-bound token makes it a two-way street and introduces a mutual kind of brand loyalty.
Louis Vuitton sells $41,000 NFTs to top clients
It’s community. It’s an exchange. By showing loyalty to the brand, they reward you with lots of goodies for your trust in them – a nice move by LV. And second, everyone says NFTs are dead, but they clearly aren’t and the excitement among fashion enthusiasts was palpable.
Last year it was Pharrell Williams appointed Chief Brand Officer from NFT project Doodles. And in April 2023, Doodles released the Pharrell package, which gives NFT holders access to digital wearables customized by Williams and its brands. This is a step toward creating a world that rewards community engagement while bridging IP and social identity through the release of 300 packs of limited edition digital wearables.
Williams’ foray into the NFT space clearly places him in the future of fashion. I would even say, Pharrell Williams is the future of fashion. Quote me, but don’t argue with me. I have receipts, hold on.
Adidas and Pharrell release digital apparel for Doodles NFT holders
When news broke on Valentine’s Day 2023 that Williams had been appointed as Louis Vuitton’s new Creative Director, taking over from the late great Virgil Abloh – who sadly passed away in November 2021 – there was much applause amid rumblings of hate.
There were some screams and moans from people who felt the job would have been better suited for a more “established” designer, combined with lamentations about the fact that he had no formal fashion training. But neither did Abloh, whose vision and work were widely praised.
At Louis Vuiton (and his own brand Off-White), Abloh redefined streetwear and ushered in a new groundbreaking and exciting era of menswear. Abloh had degrees in Civil Engineering and Architecture – degrees earned while Pharrell was dancing us.
Williams’ “education” was informal and came courtesy of the likes of Nigo, the Japanese fashion designer best known as the creator of the urban clothing line, A Bathing Ape. Nigo is currently the creative director of Kenzo, with whom Williams launched the hugely successful Billionaire Boys Club and Ice Cream brands. For many, menswear has never been more exciting for the public; now these shows get just as much press and attention as the women’s shows.
A photo of Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton debut recording. Image: Louis Vuitton
Art and all forms of creativity collide, and we are better at that. Williams, like Abloh, helped redefine “masculine expression,” pushing boundaries and gender norms and empowering men to be more expressive in their style choices. It’s hard to argue that the qualifications to be a Creative Director are simply being versatile, open and creative AF. Williams has proven that his creativity knows no bounds.
Williams has often spoken of how much he learned from Karl Lagerfeld, as well as Francesco Ragazzi of Palm Angels and Colette founder Sarah Andelman. He has a longstanding relationship with Adidas in the field of design and a number of successful collaborations with luxury labels such as Chanel, Moncler, Tiffany’s and Moynat. And don’t forget his first collaboration with Louis Vuitton thanks to Marc Jacobs, in 2004. These are receipts, friends.
And speaking of Jacobs, he made his own interesting entry into the future of fashion conversations during his fall 2023 runway show at the New York Public Library, where he showcased 29 looks in just three minutes. He seemingly embraced AI technology by having his show notes written entirely by ChatGPT.
In a subtle statement about sustainability, Jacobs presented a collection of timeless and impeccable tailored suits designed for women, predominantly in black and white. The collection evoked many fashion eras while being versatile and elegant; statement pieces that you can have in your wardrobe for many years to come. This matters given the growing conversation about owning less and fashion being less wasteful and more environmentally friendly.
We can’t talk about sustainability and not emphasize that Williams thought about this years ago. Sustainability was at the heart of his collaboration with G-Star Raw in 2017, when they released a collection that recycled plastic into denim, reducing waste and reducing fashion’s negative impact on the environment.
As we look at his debut for Louis Vutton’s Autumn/Winter 2024 collection, Williams’ stance was clear. It felt fundamental with very appropriate nods to hip-hop culture, which was appropriate given that this year marks the art form’s 50th anniversary.
Spring-Summer 2024 Men’s Show. Infused with a welcoming optimism, @Pharrell’s debut collection evoked a contrasting historical savoir-faire with a groundbreaking vision. Watch the full show at https://t.co/PvrcFe0O8w#LVMenSS24 #LouisVuitton #PharrellWilliams pic.twitter.com/RCjPUf13gb
— Louis Vuitton (@LouisVuitton) June 21, 2023
The Yankees-inspired colorway for his coat was a nod to NYC street style, and possibly to his longtime friend and collaborator Jay-Z, who closed the show and was known for always wearing a Yankees cap. It was classy and classic with a bit of “street” – clean and tapered, and the collection seemed to keep all Louis Vuitton customers and fans in mind while remaining consistent throughout. That couldn’t have been an easy feat.
The chorus and orchestra that enhanced the epic atmosphere of Williams’ debut Louis Vuitton show can also be seen as a nod to Pyer Moss designer and founder Kerby Jean-Raymond, whose legacy some say was wiped out by The cut.
But at the height of Jean-Raymond’s popularity, when he was the fashion industry’s darling, models marched out to the sounds of his 90-piece choir called “The Pyer Moss Tabernacle Drip Choir Drenched in the Blood,” as they erupted a beautiful medley of gospel, soul, hip-hop, and R&B music for avid observers of the culture (OK, me).
“Pyer Moss Tabernacle Drip Choir Drenched in Blood.”
https://t.co/meTJfQuc81 pic.twitter.com/dtkYSanCnG— HYPEBEAST (@HYPEBEAST) September 9, 2019
It may have been Williams’ way of saying, “We’ll still see you, Kerby.”
One off-the-mark criticism after the collection dropped was that the pixel print that Williams has dubbed “Damouflage”—that is, LV’s classic Damier print used to create a camouflage-like print—was copied from the recent Loewe collection. But in fact, Pharrell’s Billionaires Boys Club produced pixel and camo-inspired prints in the past. In addition, Louis Vuitton released a pixel collection in 2018 when Kim Jones was Creative Director.
Web3 loyalists wondered aloud if using the pixel print was another alleged nod to its NFT “fringe” á la the pixelated cryptopunks—an NFT project that, like Williams, is also a crucial Tiffany’s collaboration as part of the luxury brand’s move into the future.
Spring-Summer 2024 Men’s Show. @KimKardashian attended @Pharrell’s debut presentation on the iconic Pont Neuf bridge in Paris. Watch the full show at https://t.co/R5kjZkf7S7#LVMenSS24 #LouisVuitton #PharrellWilliams pic.twitter.com/ZcvhAc5xXy
— Louis Vuitton (@LouisVuitton) June 22, 2023
This kink could be wishful thinking, but Web3-native fashion brands such as The Fabricant are still “bullishly” moving forward – with extreme confidence – in the NFT space, inspired by the recent Web3 moves of major brands such as Louis Vuitton, Nike, Lacosteand many others who show they are also “bullish” about risk-taking.
Last month I spoke at a panel at NFC Lisbon entitled: “Does Digital Fashion Need Web3?” And I argued that this is not the case – at least not at the moment, because we are still a long way from mass adoption.
Lacoste unveils gamified, tokenized ecosystem for NFT holders
It takes a lot of time and a lot of money to change consumer behavior, but the brands that seize these opportunities and embrace technology will be at the forefront of the future. Williams, the parent company of Louis Vuitton, LVMH, and even Marc Jacobs see a paradigm shift underway – one that promises a future where fashion is sometimes accessible, can be produced ethically, is fun, and can be digitally empowered with love.
In Williams’ debut for Louis Vuitton, he gave a nod to his hometown of Virginia Beach by changing the “LV” to something of an acronym for “LoVers,” describing Virginia’s slogan “Virginia is for Lovers.” Love never dies, so let’s stay optimistic about love. RIP Virgil Abloh.